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Toyota World Runners
Money well spent.
San Ignacio, and Santa Rosalia
Two towns that weren't necessarily on our list of stops, but most definitely proved worthy.
San Ignacio
"We came back to you for a reason." Having heard only one recommendation to detour of the main highway into this oasis town, Matthew and I were skeptical. Our intuition however, was first in line for the ride. Immediately we are greeted with an aroma so lush your nostrils transport into a Jurassic Park movie. Palm trees turn the brightness level down into a cool striped animation rippling down the windshield. The tropical umbrellas above lure us into their peaceful embrace. There is no sign of the blasting Spring sunshine, my skin isn't lapping up salt from the ocean like a stray dog, and the crackling of semi trucks is left behind us. We can breathe.
And then the gift giver reveals itself, a lagoon situated perfectly in the entrance of town. We roll slow, watching the sun twinkle as the wind pushes the water ever so slightly in different directions. Birds paddle around, occasionally diving under for their afternoon snack. Matthew spots a campground and directs the chinook to a spot right on the water. No need to check out other campgrounds this late in the day, this spot will do. 200 pesos ( around 17$ CAD ) for the night supplied bathrooms, showers and front row to the lagoon show. An evening spent absorbing the hydration leant by the greenery, quesadillas, and thoughts brought to surface from the silence.
Waking up to the sounds of mourning doves is common throughout Baja, and we're really enjoying their tune. Our lips lightly coated in coffee, and the corners of our eyes holding crumb remains from a deep sleep, we move our bodies around the chinook slowly with little intention.
Once the system has woken up, we gather the chinook, and our curiosity, and head into town. With town being only a mile away from camp, the quaintness truly sets in. Almost instantly, as we round the last bend, the architectural masterpiece that is the San Ignacio Mission stands tall before us. I have to lean out the window just to catch a glimpse of the top. The chinook finds a parking spot, while Matthew and I roam every corner of this stunning building. Our paths in slow motion, sometimes even in reverse, we quietly take it all in. It's really quite special to be able to appreciate such vastly different beauty then what we are used to. So far in the past, yet similarities to beauty found today are present.
After the self guided mission tour, we dipped our toes in a couple of the local shops, and wiped drool off of the corners of our mouths as we were offered home baked goods all containing local dates. Date squares, Seasoned dates, Date muffins, Date bread. Our frugal cards were showing however, so we decided to save them for another day. Walking back to the chinook, and having a look at it from a distance, we both decided he could use a bath. There is a car wash right at the beginning of town, so we decide to head there next.
Pulling the chinook into automotive establishments, and watching the flock of interest is still so satisfying. For the next thirty minutes, three young men strapped in gum boots and wash cloths carefully massaged what looked like years off the truck. I watch with stars in my eyes hoping to take some cleaning tips back home with me. And when the washing symphony was over, I watched the chinook smile as they dried him with love. Getting caught up in all of the excitement, we barely notice one of the owners poking at the rust on our fenders. Matthew starts up a conversation about them, while I glance around the shop getting the hint that these guys know a thing or two about auto body work. The next thing we know, we're quoted 100$USD each side. Not quite sure if it was the shock or excitement, but. we agreed immediately and planned to be back for Monday.
Today is a very special day. One that happens once in a lifetime. The stars have aligned, and brought with it my first Bestfriend since I entered the world. Chelsea and her partner Wren have been sailing around Baja for the past six months, and we have finally caught up to them. Santa Rosalia is the quaint little port town that has brought us together, and we get the honour of spending the evening on their floating home.
Santa Rosalia holds a beautiful mission designed by Alexandre-Gustave Eiffel, who also designed the Eiffel Tower. It sits perfectly in the middle of town, and we enjoy the company of relatable history. The day and night flowed effortlessly with exploring, sharing, loving, laughing, feasting and beautiful memories I will cherish forever. It was truly special to see the similarities cruisers have to us overland travellers. We joked about the minimal laundry, frustration of simple errands, cheap taco feasts and losing track of the date entirely.
Saying goodbye is always hard, but we know in our hearts it's only a see you later. Our compass pointed back towards San Ignacio for the body work, we were keen to stay at the other palm tree filled campground in town. What intrigued us about this one was the openness of the sites forcing social activity, which we have been searching for recently. The excitement smeared across our faces at the thought of a shower is priceless. I'm not sure we had the truck in park before we both began bathing.
Surrounded by all walks of life, we glanced at the different rigs parked in the field. Large RV's hold retired couples that have been coming here for years, small school busses converted into tiny homes carry young couples on their first big road trip. And of course, there's an abundance of the ever so popular sprinter vans which seem to hold all sorts of characters. It's fun staying in campgrounds like this. We worked hard to be here, and although we may chase solitude, we also love sharing our journey, and learning from others.
We spent two full days in the palms. Showering extensively, sleeping just as much, and exploring more hidden corners of this quiet little town.
Just a couple miles down the road and we are back at the Werillo body shop. We're not even out of the truck before the guys start pulling off the fenders. I can tell Matthew shouldn't watch, so we walk back into town and enjoy a traditional Mexican breakfast, accompanied by one of the local mutts. We do our best to kill time by writing, roaming, and setting up the hammock in a nearby palm grove to catch up on some reading. When five o'clock hits, we head back to find Sunday still torn apart. I think it is safe to say the shop driveway is our camp site tonight. Unfortunately, our peaceful couple nights in the palms came to an abrupt end as we listened to the battle of stray dogs all night. Not all camp spots in Baja are glamourous.
We wake up to warmth. An uncomfortable warmth. A sticky, sign that it's going to be a hot day, warmth. Today, we have chosen to stay with the chinook in hopes of adding some pressure to the timeline. Learning very quickly that we must surrender to the Mexican work day, we keep busy with our own tasks inside the camper. The mid day siesta is the part we worry most about, as we would love to be on the road by sunset.
Keeping ourselves busy inside the sauna is hard. This is the first day we were unable to escape the heat, and all of a sudden I don't blame the guys for taking so many breaks. Thankfully, when the sun started its descent, we noticed an alarming pep in everyones step. And in the blink of an eye, we watched the finished product land on the chinook. To say we were at a loss for words is an understatement. We were ecstatic! This tiny home we brought to life was now officially rust free!
Smiling from ear to ear, we said our goodbyes, and drove off into the sunset in style.
